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Please note: Our goal is to build this in a fun and educational way, reusing things that you probably have at home. It is not a plan for professional or commercial device.
The Design.
The biggest and hardest part of the design is the ground glass shake or rotate in order to minimize the grain. Some optometry laboratory devices and laser devices use rotating ground glass diffuser. There are of course many ways how to do this, most of them quite expensive, but our goal is to do this in guerrilla way - that is with minimal spending, preferably using things found in the basement or attic. One clever idea is to grind a clear CD (such is used in a CD-R spindles as top and bottom CD to protect the CD's between them) and use a broken CD player mechanism to rotate it. Many people trying to solve such problem come independently to the same conclusion so it is officially the easiest way.
Pre-production
To work smart and to minimize mistakes, let's design this first on computer.
What we need
| The optical part |
The mechanical part |
The things that holds this together |
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1 - a closeup macro lens
2 - the 35 mm lens
3 - lens bottom lens cap |
4 - Motor from broken CD player
5 - CD dummy |
6 - particle boards
7 - bunch of screws. |
Since the distances from ground glass and lens matters a lot we need a design where we can move all parts back and forth until we find the best position. Otherwise we will very easy make a device that cannot be focused. I decided to have three boards holding lens, CD and macro lens.
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The first step is to mount the CD chassis from broken portable player on the first board. Then use large screws to distance the attached board for the macro lens and the 35mm lens.
The CD which is a ground dummy CD will work as a ground glass. This is cheap and the plastic CD still has quite reasonable optical parameters.
The CD will rotate so we will minimize all the grain and scratches on the CD.
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Here is the part with attached second - lens plate.
To attach the lens I will use the bottom lens cap, create a hole in it and then optionally glue it to the board.
The large screws will work like spacers and I will be able to space the two boards precisely to the distance I will need. The rough distance I measured on my SLR is 50mm. I should be able to move these boards closer or further from this distance to set the exact distance where the lens is focusable.
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The third board is the part where will be the macro lens attached. Again I use long screws so I can later position the boards to the exact place for the best focus.
The macro lens is needed so I can attach my video camera to this side and then zoom in, focus on the ground glass (CD). Without the macro lens I will be able still focus on the ground glass but not zoom in, which will result in large vignetting. Every lens project a circular image with large vignetting on edges. The camera then simply crop the middle part of it.
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Here is a view from other side..
The design will allow me to change the distances between boards to find the exact position.
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This is the first prototype and at this moment I don't want to think about any enclosure since I still don't know the exact distances that will be clear once I build the device.
(Click for larger version)
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